Le 13 juillet 2016, 05:12 dans Humeurs • 0
Occasionally, the disconnect between the catwalk and everyday wear can feel massive. In terms of menswear there’s no bigger paradigm of this than the idea of men in skirts. So beloved of the runway, but a nonstarter on the high street. Right?
Jaden Smith thinks that in the future we will have a different view. “In five years, when a kid goes to school wearing a skirt, he won’t get beat up and kids won’t get mad at him,” he told Nylon magazine. “It just doesn’t matter. I’m taking the brunt of it so that later on, my kids and the next generations of kids will all think that certain things are normal that weren’t expected before my time.” Messiah complex noted, but could our aversion be a generational thing? Designers from Yves Saint Laurent to JW Anderson have all showcased the dress and the skirt in different shapes.
It continues to fire the imaginations. The AW16 menswear collections saw Rick Owens showcase a boxy black dress, while outre Belgian designer Walter van Beirendonck featured a leopard-print two-piece, worn with a metal hammer-shaped headpiece that looked like something out of the Taboo club in the 80s. More recently the SS17 collections saw Craig Green’s tunic-shaped skirt featuring anti spiral and Greek patterns. While Charles Jeffrey Loverboy featured different shaped skirts and dresses, such as a trench-dress worn with a Marcel wave and turquoise vicars’ robes.
Rapper Young Thug, who poses in the star-filled new Calvin Klein ads wearing a dress over trousers from their womenswear range, says, in the accompanying video, that it’s not a hinderance to asserting masculine values. “You could be a gangster with a dress, you could be a gangster with baggy pants.”
The politicisation of the garment as worn by a man has been a constant theme. The likes of David Bowie, Mick Jagger, David Beckham and Kanye Westoffered the skirt (and iterations of it) as a countercultural statement. Bowie and Jagger in their romantic Mr Fish-designed outfits were bucking against conventional ideas of masculinity; almost 30 years later, Beckham caused a furore in his St Tropez-styled sarong, which changed the parameters of style for male footballers.
After Kanye West wore a leather kilt, he made the point that, in their original use, the skirt and dress have very different associations. “I paid my dues when I had to wear a kilt in Chicago, and friends would say, ‘What’s your boy got on?’,” he wrote in Paper magazine. “There are warriors that have killed people in kilts in the past. Who gets to decide what’s hard and what’s not hard?” Because the ‘skirt’ and ‘dress’ are misnomers. We mean dhotis, kilts, sarongs, togas and versions of those. These garments were historically worn by men, and reinforced a masculinity not a femininity. Food for thought, for those who think they have no place in menswear.