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What Fashion’s Most Eligible Designers Did During Fashion Month

Le 15 octobre 2016, 09:24 dans Humeurs 0

No late-night fittings here! As a result of a series of designer departures and terminations, some of fashion’s most creative talents were left without a collection to design this season, to the dismay of fans and critics alike. But even though their presence was missed on the runways, many of them still turned up at the shows in Paris, making pit stops to applaud their peers. The pro-runway set was led by Alber Elbaz, who took Paris Fashion Week by storm with a series of appearances that culminated in him receiving the Légion d’Honneur.

On the other hand, a select set of beloved designers chose to forgo Fashion Week altogether. Hedi Slimane remained in New York, Peter Copping toured Europe, and Marco Zanini took to Instagram posting inspirational pictures. Here, a recap of how some of the best designers without a collection spent fashion month.

Alber Elbaz

Alber Elbaz was a bigger presence at Fashion Week than ever this season. The ebullient designer sat front row at Dior and Valentino, to the delight of many other guests. On October 3, Elbaz was awarded the Légion d’Honneur by Audrey Azoulay, the Ministre de la Culture et de la Communication. The whole fashion set turned out for Elbaz’s award, and to hear the news that he was returning to fashion—sort of. At the event the designer announced a collaboration with perfumer Frédéric Malle. Perhaps a fashion collaboration is next? On Instagram, Elbaz wrote, “I am still in love with fashion . . . and I miss you all a lot.”

Stefano Pilati

Stefano Pilati resigned from his role at Zegna earlier this year, giving the designer ample time to pursue other creative projects. His first, just weeks after his departure, was teaming up with Sansovino 6 to style the knitwear brand’s dance party fashion show at Milan Fashion Week Fall 2016. For the Spring 2017 womenswear season, Pilati took to the front row instead, turning up at Comme des Garçons and Céline.

Hedi Slimane

Since departing Saint Laurent in March, Hedi Slimane has left Los Angeles for New York. Several Vogue staffers have reported seeing him out and about, though he keeps a relatively low profile avoiding fashion shows and parties. Still, he opted to join the fashion conversation for a moment this season, taking to his Twitter account to clarify that while at Saint Laurent he had a history of embracing the YSL monogram.

Peter Copping

The former Oscar de la Renta creative director parted ways with the house earlier this summer with the intention of returning to Europe. Based on his social media presence, it seems that he did just that, touring Denmark and France, documenting museums and inspiring interiors along the way on Instagram. But insiders did spot him at retailer Ikram Goldman’s traditional Paris dinner at Ratn.

Marco Zanini

The Italian designer, most recently of Schiaparelli, has also kept quite a low profile since departing the house two years ago. That’s not to say Zanini is lacking in inspiration—his Instagram account is rife with gorgeous reference images.

Raf Simons

Raf Simons might not be an eligible designer any more—he signed a contract with Calvin Klein at the end of the summer—but his design debut isn’t until this coming February, freeing him up a bit early in the season. He didn’t attend any shows, however, but he did make a New York Fashion Week appearance at the opening of Willy Vanderperre’s retrospective in Red Hook, Brooklyn.

Miuccia Prada: 'It's time to talk about the present'

Le 23 septembre 2016, 08:09 dans Humeurs 0

Prada’s profits fell 25% in the first half of this year, while the status of Miuccia Prada as Italian fashion’s go-to intellectual finds itself under threat from Gucci’s newfound enthusiasm for “allegorical cartography and rhizomatic thinking”. (Me neither.)

But this Milan fashion week catwalk show – a film-meets-fashion showcase in collaboration with David O Russell, director of American Hustle and The Fighter – was a strong statement that Prada is not content to be yesterday’s brand. 

Prada, which this summer became one of the very last luxury brands to enter e-commerce, is embracing modernity. After a series of collections in which Prada has sought to unpick femininity’s backstory in relation to contemporary fashion – the role of lace at formative moments in women’s lives, for instance – she said backstage after this show that she was finished with her “historical period”.

“Enough with talking about the past, about what women have carried on their shoulders all these years,” she said. “It is time now to talk about the present.”

The notion of a woman in the spotlight and in jeopardy – the Miuccia role, arguably – was played out in Russell’s film, projected above the metal mesh catwalk throughout. It showed the actor Alison Williams in a blond Marilyn Monroe wig being followed through an airport, and watched by a long lens photographer.

The clothes on the catwalk, too, had a sense of intimacy. These were not show-pony catwalk classics but clothes a woman might wear to go about her day, unaware of being observed.

Their hair combed flat and secured with kirby grips, their heels sensibly low and their skirts a non-fashion knee-length, the models seemed to parody everyday dressing. But this being Prada, there were twists: brown and green, colours most women shy away from in real life, pervaded the catwalk, while a simple trench coat featured maribou feathers at the cuff. 

For fashion consumers of a certain vintage, the name Max Mara will always conjure up a camel coat. But for teens and twentysomethings, Max Mara is now most closely associated with the image of model of the moment, Gigi Hadid. Hadid opened and closed the Max Mara show, her first catwalk appearance in Milan, and was joined by her model sister Bella. The night before the show, the Max Mara flagship store in the city was mobbed by fans who gathered for a glimpse of Gigi Hadid at the launch of the BoBag handbag.

The attention on Hadid took an unpleasant turn after the Max Mara show, when Ukrainian prankster Vitalii Sediuk, previously arrested in LA for a red-carpet scuffle in which he broke Brad Pitt’s glasses, seized the 21-year-old as she walked to her car, lifting her off the ground. Hadid freed herself by elbowing her assailant, and had to be held back by a security guard from pursuing him. Hadid later hit back at news reports which focused on her actions rather than Sediuk’s, tweeting that she “had EVERY RIGHT to defend myself. How dare that idiot think he has a right to man-handle a complete stranger.” Alluding to his retreat in the face of her vigorous self-defence, she signed off “he ran quick tho”.

On the catwalk, however, all was serenity. The camel coat was nowhere to be seen on the catwalk, this being a spring collection. Instead, lush green palm prints and sultry pencil skirts, worn wriggled high onto the torso and belted tightly at the waist, starred in a homage to Lina Bo Bardi, the Italian-born modernist architect whose long career in Brazil included the design of São Paulo Museum of Art. The contrast of slick, hard-edged silhouettes and fauna-splashed prints was inspired by Bardi’s quasi-brutalist buildings in their lush Brazilian context. The pencil skirts and bright colours came from the Tropicalia countercultural movement of 1960s Brazil, which Bardi was associated with, and which drew on the iconography of Brazilian folk heroine Carmen Miranda. 

This concept of bombshell glamour with intellectual chops runs through every collection which British designer Ian Griffiths creates for Max Mara. The first campaign for which Max Mara recruited Gigi Hadid in 2015 was based on Eve Arnold’s photographs of Marilyn Monroe reading Ulysses; other recent seasons have been inspired by Dorothy Parker, and by the Russian artist Lyubov Popova. 

The look – dubbed “voluptuous modernity” on the programme notes – was accessorised with bucket-shaped handbags, a style which looks to be holding strong into 2016, and by high-heeled, perforated clogs that which resembled Crocs, stoking speculation that the plastic shoes, which starred in Christopher Kane’s London Fashion Week show, will be next summer’s cult footwear.The look - dubbed “voluptuous modernity” on the programme notes - was accessorised with bucket-shaped handbags, a style which looks to be holding strong into 2016, and by high-heeled, perforated clogs which resembled Crocs, stoking speculation that the plastic shoes, which starred in Christopher Kane’s London Fashion Week show, will be next summer’s cult footwear.

Cool Mom Kim K Wears Vetements, Borrows Style Tips From Her Little Sister

Le 3 septembre 2016, 11:01 dans Humeurs 0

Yeezy Season is approaching, which means it's the time of year when Kanye West and Kim Kardashian relocate to Manhattan. They've done so in grand style, though they've also spared all expense: Their $25 million Tribeca loft was comped by Airbnb for the occasion, providing fertile ground for Instagrams and comparisons to Kylie Jenner. The impending Yeezy Season 4 could also explain Kim's recent supercharged personal style — the grande dame of nude body-con dresses has emerged as a champion of knee-length shorts and statement outerwear over the past week, incorporating Vetements into her usual rotation of Balmain and Givenchy. What it actually means is anyone's guess, but there's certainly something afoot.

Who: Kim Kardashian-West.

When: Thursday, September 1.

Where: En route to the spa with La La Anthony in New York, New York.

What: A Vetements bomber jacket, a black bodysuit, Manolo Blahnik sandals, and, crucially, black denim knee-length jorts.

Why: A knack for earning favors from Airbnb isn't the only thing Kim seems to have borrowed from her sister Kylie — she also wore the same Vetements bomber (perhaps not literally the same jacket, but the same style) as Kylie wore to friend Jordyn Woods's Boohoo collaboration launch earlier in the week. It's a powered-up version of the classic MA-1 bomber, its sleeves practically twice the diameter, puffy and slouchy. Paired with a ribbed bodysuit, black Manolo Blahnik sandals, and some distinctly un-chic knee-length jorts, it riffs on the shorts-and-jacket look she's been working throughout the week. With Kim as their champion, jorts might be the next phase in the Vetements-ification of street style, taking something totally normal and elevating it to icon status. She somehow manages to turn the ultimate mom look into the ultimate cool mom look. Kanye is getting behind it too, pulling the ultimate dad move tucking his pants into socks with sneakers. Majestic.

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