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Fans just can’t get enough as pop is star of Dior show

Le 29 juin 2017, 05:00 dans Humeurs 0

For its most recent advertising campaign, Dior Homme put the male models in the background. Centre-stage was a more unlikely figure – 55-year-old Dave Gahan, frontman of Depeche Mode. Flanked by Lucas Hedges, star of Manchester by the Sea, a statement described the duo as plotting “an evolution of style that subverts the classicism of Dior Homme today”. For Saturday afternoon’s spring/summer 2018 show, Rami Malek and Christian Slater, stars of the Netflix hacker show Mr. Robot, were on hand to continue the theme. Long-term fan Karl Lagerfeld sat in the front row too.

Kris Van Assche, the artistic director of Dior Homme, is the man responsible for this subversion from the inside. This year marks his 10th year at Dior Homme – so the show was a kind of anniversary. It took place at the Grand Palais in Paris. The space familiar to the fashion crowd was transformed with a grass floor and strings of black plastic, like that found inside cassette tapes, hanging from the ceiling.

The collection was a kind of retrospective of Van Assche’s work for Dior. It focused around his signature tailoring, with sharp suiting and outerwear given a more summer-friendly twist with shorts and sleeveless jackets.

Some of the jackets were based on the Bar shape invented for women by Christian Dior in 1947. Trends were addressed too. Explicit Dior branding will be popular. Taking his cue from Maria Grazia Chiuri, who designs womenswear for Dior, T-shirts featured the logos and the Dior branded ribbons cleverly made up from the pinstripes of suits. Sportswear details were also included – the stripes on tracksuit trousers featured on tailored trousers and bomber jackets.

Gahan wasn’t there, but the influence of his era – the Eighties – was. The loose trousers had the feel of David Bowie. The music was memorable – an electronic mix of Radiohead’s Creep, R.E.M.’s Losing My Religion and Depeche Mode’s Enjoy the Silence.

Backstage was a scrum of well-wishers, with Van Assche flanked by a security detail worthy of a rock star. The designer said the collection, which was called Late Night Summer, “was very much about this feelgood moment, also with the music, when young men realise their clothes will make a difference A kind of post-innocence.”.

Dior Homme is a brand associated with music. During Hedi Slimane’s six-year reign, that meant rock’n’roll. He featured musicians including Pete Doherty and the band Cazals in his shows, and dressed the Kills and Daft Punk onstage. He has also been credited with bringing the skinny jean, a staple of the Ramones, back into fashion. Van Assche, however, has resisted the dive bars and grubby Converse of Slimane. Instead he focuses on a more angular, electronic take on music, with the Eighties a golden era.

Van Assche sees parallels between then and now. “Now everybody is talking about androgyny and genderless fashion shows, but 20, 25 years ago he was this figure when I was a kid,” he said of Boy George, also in a Dior campaign, during an interview with the Hypebeast website. Van Assche is savvy enough, however, to know that mere nostalgia, or “theatre” won’t do.

“I always look for strong contrasts because it takes things out of their too literal context,” he said.

Van Assche is a well-liked designer but has never quite created the buzz of his predecessor. Van Assche closed his own brand in 2015, suggesting he will stay with Dior for the long haul.

Slimane remains an influential figure in fashion. After his departure from Dior Homme, he produced photography of the rock scene, before becoming the creative director of Saint Laurent for four years. The rock’n’roll take continued there, with collections based on grunge, mods and rock. He left in March 2016 and, in an interview with the New York Times in January, said he would return to photography full time.

This is the biggest mistake you can make when dressing 'business casual'

Le 30 mars 2017, 12:36 dans Humeurs 0

Perhaps you work at an office with a stated dress code, or you've received an invitation to an event with the request to dress "business casual."

But what exactly is a business casual dress code? It turns out the answer to that question is confusing for many. 

"This one is the murkiest for our customers and for other people we speak to. Part of the problem is that there are so many trends that are so casual," Dorie Smith, cofounder of women's workwear brand Of Mercer, recently said to Business Insider.

Last June, for example, JPMorgan sent out a company-wide memo encouraging employees to dress in business casual unless they were meeting with clients. Other firms like PricewaterhouseCoopers and BlackRock (which has had a business casual dress code since the '90s) followed suit in relaxing their office dress requirements as they sought to attract millennials, many of whom like to dress in athleisure in their spare time.

But the rise of athleisure and increasingly casual workplaces has led some people to don leggings and other inappropriately casual clothing items for the office. Since more and more people are wearing leggings and other performance-centric materials as they socialize and do errands on the weekends, it seems only natural that the look would bleed into the workplace. 

Leaning into that, according to the ladies behind Of Mercer, could be a big mistake. 

 "We've even gotten emails from HR at some of these firms that say, 'Help our analysts realize it's not OK to wear leggings to work,'" Smith said. "People go too casual."

You can, however, incorporate some elements of athleisure into your work wardrobe, like tailored pants that have some stretch to them -- just no sweatpants, yoga pants, or tank tops. 

"Our rule of thumb is to make sure you're dressing one step above everyone around you," Emelyn Northway, Smith's cofounder, said. "If people are wearing jeans, wear nice black pants instead. It goes a long way to making you feel good about yourself and to making other people feel like you know what you're doing."

Recent studies have shown that wearing nice clothes in the office can actually be an effective strategy -- dressing professionally can affect the way people perceive you, how confident you're feeling, and even how you're able to think abstractly.

The Of Mercer founders recommend going for a dress with a fit-and-flare silhouette or a wrap dress in a bold color. After all, you'll never hear a manager complain that someone dresses too nicely -- but you might hear about someone who's dressed down too much.

How to wear Beetlejuice stripes this Spring

Le 2 mars 2017, 09:46 dans Humeurs 0

Beetlejuice, Beetlejuice, Beetlejuice! Just like clockwork, stripes have returned to the spotlight as they do every Spring, but this time round they’re bigger and bolder than ever.

While the monochromatic trend may conjure images of everyone’s favourite veteran scaremeister, designers have taken it upon themselves to give the print a polished spin.

It’s official, traditional felon fare is in.

Super-sized, black-and-white bands that come vertical, horizontal, or a mix of both, the look that Michael Keaton made iconic will soon be making its way into your wardrobe.

On the runway, designers gave the look a fresh, high-fashion makeover with the likes of Gareth Pugh offering up a sculptural feast of shapes for his spring/summer 2017 collection.

The British designer used graphic optical art to evoke beams of light on sunburst-patterned looks that included structural two pieces and linen kaftan dresses.

Meanwhile, at Nina Ricci, the stripes were reworked countless ways – think banded gowns in silk taffeta, windbreakers, crescent shaped handbags and Eighties style tailoring. 

This was an era that defined Carolina Herrera’s collection too. In a debt to her inaugural 1981 collection, the designer rooted black-and-white candy-stripes on classically girlish strappy taffeta dresses, ball gowns, bomber jackets and denim.

Certainly, this trend is not for the faint of heart but, if anything, the runway certifies it as a fashion-forward alternative to monotone separates. 

Brave enough to go bold or go home? We recommend a striking two piece paired with a black silky cami or plain tee.

But, should a full-on striped look intimidate you, simply introduce small doses at a time and always remember to pare down your accessories.

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